Tips 1: Fix the tripod correctly. If you are shooting on wet or loose ground, such as dirt or sand, you should push the feet of the tripod into the ground to help stabilize the tripod. Loose ground is easy to move under the weight of the tripod and the camera, so each leg that anchors the tripod is much like the foundation of a building. You don’t need to drive your tripod deep into the earth - Just press each tripod leg firmly. Remember, if you are shooting on the beach and the water reaches your tripod, this is enough to change the position of the tripod, even if the legs are fixed to the sand. In order to prevent this from happening, especially when shooting long exposure shots, please place the tripod above the waterline to deal with the possibility of the beach rising during the shooting.
Tip 2: Use the right foot stand to ensure stability. Using the right foot on the tripod helps to improve stability. Many tripods have a detachable rubber foot that can pop out to reveal sharp corners, while other tripods require you to tighten and unscrew different feet. Standard rubber feet help provide a certain amount of grip and stability on smooth surfaces such as concrete and rocks, while spiked feet are designed for digging grass, dirt and sand to improve stability and grip. Specialized tripod feet can also be used on other surfaces, such as snow or mud, where the wide round feet at the bottom of each leg help distribute weight evenly like snowshoes to prevent the tripod from sinking slowly during shots.
Tip 3: Add weight to the tripod to help it stay still. If you are shooting during a windy day or night, add weight to the tripod to maintain stability and keep the center of gravity low and close to the middle of the tripod. Many tripods have a small hook at the bottom of the center column, allowing easy installation of heavy objects. This weight may be the weight of a specially designed tripod, or it may be just a bag full of some rocks. In order to prevent heavy objects from swinging in the breeze when hanging from the center column, please try to allow part of the heavy objects to touch the ground.
Tip 4: If it is not necessary, do not use the center column. Have you noticed how the thin top branches of the trees sway in the wind on the thick trunks at the bottom of the trees? The sturdy legs of the tripod work in a manner similar to tree roots, increasing the stability of the tripod, thereby minimizing vibration. Like the thinner branches of trees that extend outward from a more stable suitcase, the higher the center column of the tripod extends above the stronger legs, the more likely it is to vibrate. For maximum stability, keep the center column completely.
Tip 5: Keep the tripod as low as possible. Similar to the previous tip, the less the legs of your fully extended tripod extend, the greater the stability of the tripod. The thicker top of the tripod naturally provides maximum stability, so unless you really need to extend the tripod to its full height to improve your composition, the closer your tripod is to the ground, you will get a more stable platform And clearer photos, especially if it is windy or if you are using a tripod on a surface that is not completely sturdy. You can imagine the reason for it by depicting a ladder -The higher you climb, the more unstable it is and the more it vibrates.
Tip 6: Separate the tripod legs to improve stability. A few inches can be squeezed out of the tripod by keeping the feet of the tripod close together. The wider the legs, the more stable the tripod. Not only does putting the tripod together with the legs close together, making it inherently unstable and raising the center of gravity, it can also help the tripod tip over when a gust of wind blows by, making your tripod and camera hit the ground an expensive disaster. Like a ladder, wide tripod base = solid support structure.
Tip 7: Avoid touching the camera to trigger an exposure. Using a shutter release cable, a timer or interval meter on the camera can help further reduce vibration. It may seem that just pressing the shutter button to take a photo will make the camera shake too much, but the longer the exposure time, the more obvious the blurring caused by this action. Use a wired remote control or timer to trigger the shutter, without you actually touching the camera to take a picture. On most DSLRs, mirrorless and advanced compact cameras, you can use the Selfie function on the camera to reduce exposure vibration up to a preset limit of 30 seconds, but use the light bulb mode that can extend the exposure indefinitely , You need to use a shutter release line or interval meter to avoid holding down the shutter button during the entire shooting.
Tip 8: Enable mirror lock or use real-time view. If you use a tripod mounted on a tripod for shooting, you can further reduce vibration by enabling mirror lock or using live view, which achieves basically the same function. With a SLR camera, the mirror can reflect the view through the lens to the viewfinder so that you can compose the picture. When you press the shutter button to take a photo, the mirror flips up at a very fast speed so that it no longer blocks the path of light from reaching the sensor -During the exposure, the viewfinder becomes darker because light no longer reflects on it. The movement of the mirror is quite violent in a small range and causes quite a lot of small vibrations, which may take a few milliseconds to subside- It is trivial for a quick exposure of fast action. Before shooting, the mirror lock will flip the camera's mirror up, so that the vibration of this action will subside, so they will not affect the photo.
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